Be safe and dry — here’s how and why

FINDLAY — Here are several simple and inexpensive steps you can take to make your home less vulnerable to storms and flooding — money-saving steps that should help you and your family stay dryer and safer.

Some of these mitigation measures probably require the experience and skills of a professional; some you can do yourself — especially with tips and guidance from the Federal Emergency Management Agency.

Before you rebuild after a flood, be sure to give your house plenty of time to dry. If it takes a week for visible moisture to dry, wait at least a week more for the parts you can’t see to dry, too.

The first step in rebuilding is to check with the local building department to make sure you are aware of all code requirements, and have obtained all necessary permits.



Utilities

* Move the main breaker or fuse box and utility meters at least a foot above the base flood elevation for your house. (The BFE is also referred to as the 100-year flood level.)

* Label each circuit. If code allows, raise the electrical outlets and switches, too.

* If possible, install the furnace, water heater, air conditioner and heavy appliances such as washers and dryers on a higher floor or raised platform. (A heating system might also be suspended from a basement ceiling.)

* Make sure washers and dryers are firmly secured so they will not vibrate off blocks or platforms during use.

* A 1- or 2-foot waterproof floodwall around appliances will protect them from shallow flooding.

* If your air conditioner or heat pump is outside, install it on a platform.



Walls

* If the wallboard and insulation had to be removed after the flood, wash and disinfect the studs and sills.

* If replacing studs and sills, consider using metal ones, which are less vulnerable to water than wooden ones.

* Pressure-treated wood resists mildew and wood-eating insects, but may swell when soaked, and in some cases is inappropriate for indoor use, depending on the chemicals used to treat it. Consult your lumber supplier.



Wallboard

* If you install wallboard horizontally (4 feet high), you’ll only have to replace half the wall if the next flood is less than 4 feet deep.

* Leave the wall open 1 inch above the sill. The baseboards will hide the gap. After the next flood, remove the baseboard. This will speed the draining of the flood water, and enable you to make repairs and replace damaged wallboard, if necessary.



Floors

* Carefully examine particle board or plywood flooring because those materials tend to fall apart when wet for long.

* Things might not be as bad as they seem: Floor joists and some wood floors regain their shape when naturally dried.

* Use screws or screw nails on floors and stairs to minimize warping.

* After re-nailing, a wooden floor may need a little sanding to be smooth, or you can place a new underlayment for a new floor over it.

* Completely dry sub-flooring before laying new flooring or carpeting.



Painting/waterproofing

* Do not paint until the wall or floor is completely dry. It may take several weeks for material to get dry enough throughout so new paint won’t peel. Don’t hurry, and you won’t have to worry.

* With concrete surfaces:

* To make cleanup easier next time, use a clear coating of penetrating sealer.

* Painting alone — even several coats — won’t cover water stains. Coat the stained area with shellac or a stain killer before painting.

* Don’t rely on waterproofing paints to flood-proof your walls. Thick plastic or rubberized sheeting provides the most secure water- proofing seal.



Windows and doors

* Replace windows with vinyl or metal-framed windows.

* Hollow-core or polystyrene foam-filled metal doors are water resistant.

* Metal may rust slightly, but that is easily repaired.



Fuel tanks

* Unanchored fuel tanks can tip over or float. Escaping fuel may result in a fire; a loose fuel tank can turn into a floating bomb.

* Use non-corrosive metal structural supports and fasteners to anchor a fuel tank.

* Check with the tank manufacturer for recommendations on anchoring, and make sure all work conforms to state and building codes.



Hiring a contractor

* If you have been satisfied with work done by licensed local contractors, try them first.

* If you must hire a contractor you do not know, talk to several before you sign anything.

* A good contractor would agree that you should take the following steps:

* Check the contractor’s reputation;

* Ask for proof of insurance; references; a written estimate; a contract.

* Don’t sign completion papers until the job is finished.

* Make sure your contractor calls you or a qualified observer to inspect work before it is covered over.



Here are a few publications about flood mitigation:

* "Homeowners Guide to Retrofitting: Six Ways to Protect Your House From Flooding" (FEMA 312)

* "Mitigation of Flood and Erosion Damage" (FEMA 257)

* "Floodproofing Non-Residential Structures" (FEMA 102)



To obtain copies of these and other publications about mitigation measures, call (800) 480-2520.



More information is available online at www.floodsmart.gov and www.fema.gov.